Let me first say that Texas is very odd....and very big....and very - different. There is incredible opulence in the housing tracts around the big cities. Starter castles here are BIGGER than any place else. Then you move to large ranches. And down the road from your large ranch is a shack that people live in that Appalachians wouldn't keep their pigeons in.
But they got a sense of humor:
I've seen people living in semi trailers parked on a lot like in Jamaica - though not usually with 30 people living in it - and double-wides on a lot with an old sharecroppers cottage falling down on it. Come to think of it there are a lot of old falling down buildings everywhere here - but they turn them into roadhouses (that specialize in either BBQ or Catfish), restaurants, flea markets, or bars. Outside of which there is usually a VERY BIG pickup truck or SUV.
Now that I am a Texan I feel I should get a saddle and a big hat. Maybe develop a drawl - y'all. To further my education in being a Texan it seemed wise to visit the Capitol - Austin. Austin's motto is
(I kid you not) : Keep Austin Weird . That alone was enough to make me go there. The problem was Austin is the only place I have been in Texas that seems normal. It's the rest of Texas that appears to be caught in a warp world somewhere.
That said we were impossibly lucky in being able to visit the lovely and talented Evelyn Burns and her equally lovely and talented husband Bob and their 4 cats.
They graciously showed us around and saw to it that we got to as many of the highlights of Austin that we could. Bob is an executive chef and made certain that we had some mighty fine eats too. We took in the Armadillo Christmas Bazaar and saw some of the terrific art talent in Texas all displayed together and on sale for Christmas. The Red Headed Irish Girl and I cleverly snuck around and acquired Christmas Gifts for each other and family. Each day during the Bazaar musicians with Austin connections played several sets. Different acts performed throughout the day. We were lucky and got to see Sahara Smith:
perform in a small and intimate setting. We bought her Cd afterwards and she autographed it for us.
She writes grown up lyrics and sings in a style reminiscent of Joni Mitchell but yet all her own. She is highly recommended!
Notable among the many artists were:
Richards Kunkel:
Richard produces sculptures cast from molds he finds or makes. Everything he had in his booth was based on a Beatles song or lyric. They were all amazing. Find more of him at:
Also notable were:
Texas Montage Series from Carl & Elisabeth Crum. They are photographers and film makers who had some wonderful photo montage's for sale of the Austin area. They were cut out and collage together to appear 3 dimensional. Though I didn't get to meet Carl, Elisabeth spent several minutes talking with us about their work and encouraging the ontheroadphoto trip. Check out the montages if you are looking for some really unique wall hangings.
Bungled Jungle from Pat Landreth & Suzanne Montano. There is really no way to describe these things. Sculptures from a "paper mache - like process" of strange beasts that have never existed in nature. They are wonderfully imaginative mobiles, statues, and various other kinds of sculptures. Scary and funny they remind of some of the best 60's cartoons come alive!
The next day we made a trip to pay our respects to the Stevie Ray Vaughn Statue by the river (though they call it a Lake - WTF?):
That's him casting his giant shadow all over Austin and the music world. How much of sin is it that he isn't in the R&R Hall of Fame? Aside from my belief that you cannot institutionalize anarchy (which is what R&R is) I will never even consider setting foot in that place until they have admitted SRV. Course he won't be able to play at the 'jam' maybe that why they don't consider him. The R&R HOF is a sick joke.
Later Evelyn took us to Muller's BBQ for what Bob considers the best BBQ he has tasted. This was the place that SRV and his brother Jimmy shot the poster for 'Family Style' at and they have a copy of the poster framed and mounted to the wall next to the largest collection of business cards I have ever seen. Yes I added the ontheroadphoto card to it!
Lower right hand corner of the bulletin board 3d up from the bottom. Wishin I had taken the photo of the Vaughn brothers. Texas BBQ is not like the BBQ I am used to where the sauce is the key. Texas BBQ is cooked for a long period in a smoke house and covered in spices and whatever (the rub) and the meat is the thing. Sauce don't matter. With that in mind this WAS the best BBQ I have ever tasted. The meat was incredible and unbelievably tender and tasty. You mustn't miss this if you ever get to the Austin area!
Adhering to the "Keep Austin Weird" mantra the people of Congress Ave. appear to be locked into a state of mind. Where else would you find a cowboy riding a Bunny Rabbit:
Or a costume shop with a 12 foot tall statue of a Zebra dressed as Carmen Miranda:
Or a taco stand as a shrine to Maria:
And of course the Austin Motel celebrating....a finger? or a ...well...the obvious?
I'm pretty sure I smelled the distinct aroma of Herb on the streets...or maybe they don't really need it.
Austin is a place to come back to.
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